Like many in her industry, Kao has a performing arts background. As a teenager she studied classical violin, something she thought she would pursue professionally. But she was also fascinated with art, spurred by her grandfather, who collected Chinese works. In college, Kao studied Chinese art and artifacts, with a focus on Buddhist art, which remains one of her favourites in the art world. “Tang dynasty, Buddhist sculpture, you just can’t get better than that,” she says.
Kao got her start in the auction world with a temporary role at a small auction house in the Bay Area, California, where she grew up. She had planned to further her education by studying classics at Columbia but was offered a full-time job as a cataloguer in decorative arts at the house, which had acquired a trove of Chinese artworks.
With no training, Kao hosted her first auction (or, in auction parlance, “took a sale”) at the age of 23 and, from then on, she was hooked. “I thought: Wait a minute. This is a job? You’re just spending other people’s money and looking at beautiful things for them,” she says. “And I liked the field. I liked the industry. Every day is different. You meet all sorts of people. You’re surprised daily by who you meet and what you find and I just kept working.”
From there, she went on to bigger and bigger auction houses and ultimately landed a role as a specialist in Chinese art at Sotheby’s in New York. While she’s been an auctioneer for over a decade, Kao had to audition to conduct sales. Kao nailed her audition, with one exception: her long hair kept hitting the microphone as she moved. Hugh Hildesley, head of auctioneers emeritus at Sotheby’s, asked that she wear her hair up so as not to distract from the presentation. Kao styled her hair in an elaborate updo for the second audition, with coils of hair framing her face. “It went off really well,” she recalls. “So, I started doing it for every sale. And it very quickly became my signature look.” Kao says she looks so different when wearing her auction hairstyle versus her dayto-day straight long hair that people often don’t recognize her on the street.
But preparing for an auction goes beyond mere style choices. For an all-important evening sale, for example, Kao has to know the works in question “inside and out,” which requires extensive research. Regardless of the type of sale she’s conducting — whether evening or day sales, which cross price points and categories, from wines to watches — Kao is meticulous about studying an item’s provenance and significance. “I want to understand why it’s a coveted work. And I want to be able to get into the psychology of my buyer as much as I can.”